Al/ @rosco /anyone have any input on type of paint to hit the rails with? I can cut in and roll my walls, but feel like a dumb dumb when it comes to paint specifics.
Personally, for the rails i think that stain is the best. I havenāt tried it yet, but all the paint iāve tried comes off too easily. I wanna start staining the rails from now on and locking it in with the clearcoat.
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Canāt help sorry bro, havenāt done itā¦
On my tesseract I did the top of, I had carbon skinned the underside and wrapped that up over the rails.
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I was thinking about that as well. I feel Iāll have a hard time skinning a deck without sanding the edges after. So it seems, for me at least, that the rails have to be the last step b4 clearcoat with out a decent adjustment to process.
Iām gonna grab some tomorrow give it a go on my 2 samples since they are at the same prior to clearcoat state. Think I can apply it decently clean with rag wrapped around my finger, hopefully minimal cleanup on finished top and bottom.
Iām worried about clear coat adhesion with an oil based stain. Reading up says it should be fine with a sufficient cure time.
That must have been a delicate dance with when to cut the fabric. Not to mention the delicacy of cutting in your edges with the right amount of resin and the act off slicing the fabric itself.
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Carbon was cured and had a cured coat or two of epoxy on it so was hard. Sharp razor blade on the top fabric when it was finishing the tacky stage and it peeled off easy. Timing was everything though 
Gave the edges a delicate sand and clear coat after
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Just make sure you have whatever cleaning agent you need on hand so that if you do get the stain where it shouldnāt be, you should be able to easily remove it
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Acetone is fine on finished epoxy eh? Or do I need a more gentle cleaner at this phase?
Acetone should be ok on completely cured epoxy, but Iād use isopropyl.
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Good shit, Iāll keep acetone on standby incase of emergency.
Yup. Needs to be well cured and Iād be cautious. Have had it mess up some parts finish a bit where I think maybe hadnāt it cured enough. Spot test below truck baseplate?
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Yep. Itāll appear cloudy for a bit. If not comfortable with acetone or spirits, 2000grit and water.
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Little bit of dishwashing liquid in the water helps too 
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Is that a thing? Never tried that.
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Reduces surface tension of the water and helps a lot for wet sanding
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I donāt know why I have never done that. Makes sense.
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Circling back to this, @tomiboi78 do you have any input on good stain for bamboo? IIRC youāre well versed in this
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I use this line.
https://www.minwax.com/wood-products/pdf/Minwax_ColorGuide_WoodFinish_Water-Based_InteriorStains.pdf
I like the water based because it doesnāt stink and all of the fun colors are available in water based, but oil based is easier to apply.
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Thanks for sharing!
Sorry if Iām missing something obvious here, but doesnāt this destroy the artwork? I keep seeing beautiful glassed frit decks and Iām wondering how you guys manage this āminimalistā sanding methodā¦
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You only need to sand before the artwork goes on.
However, if there is enough resin over the artwork its perfectly fine to sand over it for subsequent coats of resin/clearcoat.
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Thank you, Wow thatās a lot of colors 
. Iām gonna try and find a place that sells samples since Iām only doing the edges.
Is the blending harder to pull off with water based?
Would you suggest semi transparent or solid?
@pmg As AL said, you donāt need to sand once the fabric is down if you time it right. Otherwise I found once fabric was encapsulated, the resin was thick enough for a light careful sanding if you had to let the coat cure for whatever reason.
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