Look what I got to try earlier:
The feel in the hand is really great. Could happily rock this design. Nice, Doug!
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@BillGordon Nice! I’m glad you like it. I’m right on the verge of wrapping up the Sand Runner rebuild and I’ll post some pics and videos when I take it, and this remote, out for a test spin at the coast.
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Doug How did you print yours? what settings?
mine keeps turning out like Bill’s above because the fillet around the edges makes a too great overhang and the filament sags. also what material did you use?
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Yes, this was my great mistake. I designed it specifically with the fairly high-end 3D printers that we have at work in mind, not a standard consumer printer like the Prusa. The tolerances are too tight and the design doesn’t account for the kind of problems you’re having.
I should have printed it on the Prusa before I released it to make sure everything works, except that Prusa does such a crappy job with support materials.
The printers are nylon. Your best bet would be to get a service to laser sinter them in nylon. But if you do this let me know because I should send you an updated version with the button holes a bit larger. Turns out when it gets really hot out the nylon in the housing expands and the buttons get sticky.
For reference the printer I used is a Markforged Onyx series.
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Okay this makes sense. i was questioning my abilities. i tried printing it facing up with lots of support underneath, and also facing down where support was only on the fillet. both work, you get a better fillet with facing up, but you don’t get than shiny look from printing face down on a glass bed. To get good results i made the xy support distance to 0.2mm as to increase the support received. The mount plate was by far the worst lol. So much support and the parts are so thin they just break upon removing the support. Had to reinforce with some sika polyurethane
Sanding was required and 3 coats of 2k clear coat, the result it pretty good. This is prusament PLA .4mm nozzle .12mm layer height
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That looks really good! I’m glad you were able to get it printed. don’t forget that especially with the slellac the button holes might be a bit too small and the buttons stick.
I’m thinking of doing another rev that is slightly larger and includes a lanyard mount. I found that in my gloved hand the remote is just a bit smaller than it should be and the tail is a bit short.
I also realized that on long rides it would be nice to have a bump on the back side of the wheel that I could use to rest my thumb against. I already added that (can’t post a piccie, on the wrong machine) but haven’t printed it yet. I’m still noodling on the other features.
I’ll post here when get to it.
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Hey DougM !
Thanks for this nice design. I tried the puck puck bruce, batwing, but most comfy for my hands is your approach. Only little design flaw is the charging port. Its nearly impossible ( for me ) to get the mini usb in the slot without braking the case. Ended up just cutting it out and filling the hole afterwards with epoxy. Printed 1 Set on my FDM and 1 on my resin printer. Both worked well. The Tumbwheel is also printed. Keep up the good work. Would love to see a revision with a fixed charging port and as you said a tiny bit larger for easier assembly.
Unfortunately I am a new Member so I can’t upload pictures 
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Great input Carl, if you hang around and build up your read time, your status will be updated and you’ll be able to post pictures 
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Yes, you’re right - the USB port is pretty tricky.
I held the thing to insane tolerances, not the kind your average 3D printer can handle. Though you have a resin printer, which is definitely tighter, but I printed them in nylon (really bendy) so I was able to move things around as I installed the guts.
Anyway, I’ll take that into account when I do a next Rev.
However that’s a ways down the list because…
Yes, baby’s gettin’ a brand new bank! These are 4500mAh 2170’s, which will give me 20% more range than my current pack was when it was new, which was many years ago.
And I have several other upgrades that are overdue for this board.
But if I get some time in the deep dark rainy Februarys I’ll look at the new rev of this design.
Thanks for the feedback, I’m glad you like it!
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Indeed Nylon would be a good choice. Although I printed it with flexible resin it shattered into pieces when I tried to bend it. Glad I had printed it double. Looks like a 10s5p configuration is your next project ?!
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Apparently flexible resin just isn’t what it’s cracked up to be. I have been looking for an excuse to get a resin printer - apparently this isn’t it 
Yes, 10S5P. The only downside to these cells is they are only 13.5A, but that’s 67.5A which is about what my Unity is set for now, so shouldn’t be an issue.
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Shell*, i only printed one 
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But yea, get one. For something beginner and small if you dont have the space, the Elegoo Mars 2 Pro or Mars 3 are good options.
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Is this the batwing XL ? I printed the normal batwing and didn’t manage to get the puck guts to fit properly.
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I’m pretty sure it’s the smaller version.
I didn’t even know there was a XL version.
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Neither did I lol
Printed the batwing 2 times but never managed to get the internals to fit. There was always a gap between the 2 shells of approximately 2-3 mm. Anyways I prefer DougM´s casing because it fits just better in my small hands Processing: IMG_4347.HEIC…
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