Did a test for you 
I sand it a bit and it was surprisingly smooth so I decide to put varnish without any extra resin and after two coats still not good enough so yeah extra resin might be a must. Final cloths (cotton this time with much better quality than those before) came in today so next test is with a bag. I’ll report when it’s done 
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I have done 2 with mixed results.
Shirt cotton blend became soft and brittle and bond was so so. (Using Trojan epoxy) to sanded epoxy.
Second attempt was much better I bought a single cotton sheet Kmart brand (think it’s a blend)
This time I soaked the sheet before applying.
Adhesion is good no lifting so far.
This is my latest build Punisher
Also used Trojan.there is some ripling due to the fabric having 0 give
The adhesion underneath the iron transfer isn’t perfect but will hold.
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Soaked with mixed resin? In my experience a light baste of harder on the surface of deck and fabric. Not a shit load either, just enough to not absorb the mix. I use total Boat also. So 🤷
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This deck didn’t have a lot of flex to start with (tb40) the layers of epoxy killed any flex it had. I thought the carbon evolve was stiff but this is like riding a railway sleepers.
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Al… something I’ve learned during sabbatical to get purrrrfect baby butt smooth skins and glassing is to cut out mylars to the board shape, glass the deck or skin it, use paper towels or the equivalent to sop up the excess epoxy while still green, add the mylar on the top and then bag the whole mess, i use 12 hours at room temp, and then wrap the whole bag in an electric blanket for final cure at elevated temps…
unbag the mess and the mylar peels right off leaving a mirror-like finish… and all the excess epoxy drools out the edges…
depending on your epoxy you may wanna lightly wax the mylar…
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Does Mylar stretch to curves tho?
How would this confirm to concave / complex shapes?
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That is exactly what I was trying to do but I used 1mm thick silicone sheet. It stretchess to any shape and has nice smooth surface that resin won’t stick to.
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Ross, yup… it’s smooth yet stiff and inexpensive… 0.2mm thick is what i use if you can press wood to the shape it will work… compound curves like an enclosure not so much, but you can glass and mylar compound curves in a couple of steps…
and i’ve even sanded the backside (away from the object to be glassed) to get really fine curves and faired out shapes
for smaller parts, I’ve even use PP clear document protector sleeves and it works just as well… you just can’t piece these together to cover a large project, the epoxy will form a ridge at the join… ya know
peeps have been using this technique for years on glass up airfoils to get a baby butt smooth surface… i just bumped into it a couple of months ago…
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Sounds like a silicone sheet under a stretchy vac bag is an experiment
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Silicone sounds interesting, but i don’t think it will achieve the same results, it lacks stiffness… however if it works for you then go for it…
Part of the genius of slick mylar is the bendyness yet the stiffness, and no glue or adhesives stick to it… none that I’ve found… somehow tape sticks to it and can aid in alignment.
I reuse my mylars for mixing up epoxies and the like and the goo just snaps off when you’r done…
have a nasty repair in epoxy or CA. adhere it in place and you can use a small piece of mylar to hold it or clamp the part into place, or to quickly fair or fillet a part… slam on the glue and use mylar it sculpt or fair the epoxy into place
get a cheap document protector sleeve in poly propylene and try it out
for science
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here is a two minute video of basically how we use mylars in airfoil glassing…
it’s worth the watch…
if ya liked that here is a guy doing the entire process…
it’s kind of cool how you can learn so much from a totally non-related hobby…
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Isn’t e-foil on the rise?
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Yes, yes it is.
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Looks good for flat surfaces. I have more complicated shape with those deep spots for trucks so in my case silicone works good. My last one straight out of the bag with 5 sheets of fiber glass and cloth with graphics in one go.
Still I think I’ll have better results wit my press. Just need to make a mold for it.
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If you feel like skimping/skipping a white basecoat(s), think again.
I noticed this while doing a small skin on the enclosure.
The epoxy wicked up the fabric a bit and showed what the bright green would look like without a white basecoat.
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The one enclosure I posted skinned without base coating. Looks like shadows.
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