I actually had a .65 that I bought a year ago-ish.
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Hey Ryan, those were lifted from the Puck Puck Bruce. They align the buttons. They print ok for me, I just have to be careful not rip them out when I pull out the supports. Still works when I do rip a few out, so maybe not all needed. I also found the accuracy does not need to be very high here. I did need to use a file on the button holes to get them to move smoothly.
Just the POT gets transplanted. Let me give you some quick instructions for when you do give it a try. I think it is easily reversible if you are good at soldering, in case you don’t like it.
Here are some quick instructions:
Step one: Disassemble the puck. Remove the battery bracket and wheel assembly
Step two: Unplug the battery and desolder the POT from the Puck PCB, circled in red below:
Step three: Solder three wires to the pads and use some hot glue to anchor them because PCB pads can be pulled off pretty easily with wires soldered to them. I brought the wires through the hole where the POT was. The wires should connect to the high (red wire), middle (green wire) and low (black wire) taps of the POT footprint. There are two middle taps, you can solder to either.
Step four: Solder the three wires to the three holes in the trigger PCB. Note the order, black on the left, green in the middle, red on the right. Make sure they come out the correct side or the spring will hit the wires. EDIT: also solder the POT to the board at this point.
Step five: Change the thumb wheel for the trigger. Unscrew the little screw in the thumb wheel and replace the wheel with the 3D printed trigger. Careful for ejecting springs.
Step six: The PCB will snap right on to this and you can use two screws from the battery tray to secure it the wheel assembly.
Step seven: Plug the battery back in and power it up to test it before final assembly. It should be functional at this point, so if you can’t throttle your board, something might have went wrong.
Step eight: Slide the battery in first to the grip, then the trigger assembly into the three slots. Both the stock battery and a 21700 fit. The trigger assembly must slide in at an angle, not quite straight down.
Step nine: Put the two side screws in to hold the trigger assembly in place. I used 2-56, 3/8" length, but I think M2x10mm will also work.
Step ten: You can now fold the wires under the board and push the board down. If you tucked the wires under right, the board should sit in the pocket easily.
Step eleven: Get the top case with the buttons and flip the grip on. Its a little tricky to get everything to not spill out. Then add screws while you squeeze it all together. You should be good to go at this point.
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Hey Thom, are you going to share your files so I can also point 2000 lumens at people when I ride at night?
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Yeah, I can upload them to my thingiverse unless there’s a better way.
If you put it there I’ll link to it on the git project. Or you might be able to put it on the git yourself
I’ll get them over there this evening.
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I just loaded the mount-plate and grip mount. I have to make an adjustment to the top-side mount still.
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Awesome bro that’s so useful! I’ll make sure to link this page if I ever end up doing a video on it
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github 
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