I’ll put together some tips on using forms in fusion
3 Likes
Looks like it’s got a good spot for the pinky finger
Some Tips on using Forms (3D cubic splines?):
Intro, I started building remotes (and a gotchi enclosures) by just putting boxes around the PCB and hardware, cutting out pockets then filleting the shit out of it to get the shape I wanted. The problem I ran into was using a lot of fillets seems to be unstable. Anytime I wanted to change something early in the design history, the filleting could break and I would have to go through it operation by operation. I was sick of this and searching for a better way. That pink forms button with the star was like “come hither, there is a better way grasshopper.”
And it pretty much works. I can create the form, do a bunch of operations on it, like slicing it into two, shelling it and then go back in the timeline and modify the grip for any reason. Thats the nice part, along with the potential for good ergo grip. There are a few downsides that I will mention at the end. I can give a few tips that I learned in context of building this remote that seem to make it easier. I have really only learned a few functions and the pool is much deeper than that. Maybe one of us can take this much father than I have and share this with the group.
So to start, I have a fusion design with all the hardware in it. Hoyt PCB, batteries, a de-featured puck-puck bruce top shell and my trigger assembly. I ground the the PCB (so it cannot move) and use joints to lock the batteries, trigger assemblies and bruce top at my best guess of where they should be. The alignment doesn’t have to be perfect, because you can go back and edit their position later. This is the beauty of the joint feature.
I put an offset plane somewhere near vertical center to start the forms cylinder I will draw.
Using the forms operation and then the cylinder command, draw an appropriate diameter cylinder. This does not have to be perfect as it will get heavily messaged. It really helps (required with this remote) to use symmetry (length in this case) as the remote is going to the same roughly from right to left. Pick the number of segments you need. Think of how many grip feature you want for each finger and such. I might have picked 8 or so vertical and 4 diameter. Basically, you want to start with what you will need. You can add later, but its not so easy (alt or opt when you are pulling faces) and will not be clean. Remember to keep it simple, too many segments will be hard to deal with.
The cylinder does not have a top or bottom, so you can add then with the faces feature, selecting the vertices or edges
Now, you can get to shaping using the modify button. You can grab points, edges or faces and just pull or push. The symmetry you setup in the original cylinder really helps here. I like edges and sometimes grab more than one. Below I grabbed two edges and pulled.
And just like that, we are starting to see a hint of the Enterprise.
Grab, push and pull a few more edges and you start to see you have a grip.
The beauty of this is that you can see the internal components faintly and shape the housing to cover everything.
After you finish the form, you can then go about the operations you need to do to make the remote. I used a cut plane to split the top from the bottom. Then I shelled the top and blended it with the defeatured bruce part. Then I carved out cavities from the grip to house the trigger assembly, the battery and mounting features for the PCB. See my fusion file if you really want to get into it that is in the git link above.
What is great is that when asked to put in 21700 battery, it was no big deal to go back in the history and edit the form for a wider grip. Nothing broke.
So there it is, the quick overview. Now we can all work on our own version of the dong when the FreeSk8 OSSR comes out. And when @glyphiks bugs @Andrew and says he likes his dong 1" longer, easy peasy, one of us can pull the form a bit and …[insert joke here]
Now the downside. Anyone who has messed with my fusion project will see that adjusting my form yields some weird results. It seems that if you pull and push too much on a form it can get a bit “tight”. Then any changes results in a tumor that jumps out and wrecks the design. Mind you this is after significant molesting of the model. I guess its just the cubic spline model has too many vertices and edges and such. It seems you might remedy this in the modify menu with the smoothing and straightening commands by simplifying the model.
Basically, don’t have too many features or it will get crazy. Maybe someone skilled will easily get passed this, but I got to a point where I could not modify the form without significantly changing it. I probably just need to put a few more hours into it to figure it out, but that is where I am at at this point.
17 Likes
Banked!! 
4 Likes
ohhh, so t splining is almost like clay molding ish, but virtually on fusion?
6 Likes
Exactly what I was looking for dude! Thank you so much. I really enjoy seeing how different people approach designs and always learn something new.
6 Likes
It does kinda fell like that
3 Likes
Yeah, it’s like virtual clay sculpting with precision, the ability to add perfect symmetry and also you can go back in the history and make easy changes.
3 Likes
PEW PEW INDEED 
12 Likes
Ooh have the bottom one be a red strobe one like a tail light!
5 Likes
I think I’ll just ride with the one on the bottom, but I wanted to make options. The bottom-mount works nicely as a pinky rest when the light isn’t installed.
9 Likes
Holy shit
6 Likes
Fuck yes. This is awesome
4 Likes
Am I too late to the party to pick up one of these boards?
I’m planning to use my puck in my haero build but I’m not convinced I’ll like the puck form, instead I love trigger remotes. I would love to try this out
3 Likes
I’ve had some good rides with this remote this week. It’s working out nicely, but I did find it helpful to upgrade to a heavier weight spring.
4 Likes
Do you have some pictures of the internals once it’s set up by chance?
I’m not doing this for a while, but I’m a little confused as to if I need to add any components to the circuit board or if it’s just the transplant of the one large component
Also, it is semi-difficult to print all of those tiny standoffs inside the top case, so I wonder how necessary they are. The ones with holes were easy though.
Thanks @Kilow for sending over the PCB! Once I ride a bit with the regular puck I’ll switch over to the pistol grip. I printed it out already and it feels pretty dang nice.
4 Likes
All the way up to 5?
1 Like