3D Printed Battery/ESC enclosure for top mount eMTB

I built this enclosure for my haero with the intention of having a purpose built, light ride for pump tracks and jumps in woods. Range is not necessary for this board so the battery is small. My first iteration of this board used a pelican R60 case holding my lipos and it seemed kinda heavy, ~2.5lbs empty. I always liked what @Pedrodemio and @PixelatedPolyurethan did with their printed enclosures. Those designs needed top and bottom plates which I could not do myself. Then I found out about sendcutsend. The plates only priced out to $17 each and ship pretty fast. So I thought I would move the esc into the battery case and save some more weight. The aluminum plates also heat sink the esc, although my configuration hardly produces much heat. If you do order from sendcutsend you will need to countersink your screw holes if you want a nice flush mount.

Lots of ideas I used in this come from the community, subconsciously absorbing things from “Pictures and Nothing Else” or just blatantly using ideas like hex standoffs in a slot for securing the plates like Apex does.

The enclosure is built around using two 6s 8Ah lipos and zenith. I used M12 type connectors for the sensor port (12 pin) and the balance connector (17pin) [I use a balance charger]. I know some of you use GX type (?) connectors, but I was looking for something that had a right angle and was small as possible so it would not break when I would inevitably stack. Bonus was that TE connectivity had step models so I could get the proper orientation for the keyed right angle cable. The M12s are ok, nothing to write home about since they cost a bit more than other options.

I also made a little internal honeycomb tray to hold down the batteries which seems to be working well. Made my own version of panel mounts for the MR60s and MT60. They work ok. I still need to seal the whole enclosure and ports with something like silicone.

I printed the whole thing in PLA on my Pursa. Since the batteries are small I could print the walls as a whole piece. I added some 3/8" neoprene between the batteries to protect them. I also put some of that same neoprene between the case and the board. Cheap amazon straps hold it down. They have not failed yet and I usually take a few spills each ride.

I was able to fit the Xenigotchi and GPS in there too. The gotchi really helps sorting out the VESC settings. I don’t think I want ever use the VESC tool again. I don’t really need GPS but I threw it in there anyway and I was surprised that I actually can get a lock with the aluminum plate right over the top of the module.

Everything’s been holding up pretty well. I thought I would need to print this in PETG or something stronger but most of the strength comes from the plates and the hex standoffs. On my next iteration I might drop a few of those hex standoffs as 4 on the long side seem overkill.

I also have an iteration of the design that would use a heatsink from Nebula or an Infinity Sink (mini). Then the plates could be made of G10 or carbon fiber. I did not build this yet. I doubt it would save me much weight but it might look pretty cool. The cost per plate goes up to something like $40 or 50. I figured I would go the cheaper route first and sort out any of the design issues then maybe try composite plates

I like the openness of this community, sharing models and ideas, so I posted the fusion model on my git repository here. There are lots of parts in there that make up the model that you might find useful. @Andrew thanks for the zenith model, that really helped to size and orient everything right. The model also has my design history which might be useful if you want to use this as a basis for your own enclosure but change features or connectors. The only thing this model doesn’t have is cable routing. I have seen it done in Solidworks but I am not sure it actually helps. I certainly can’t do that yet in Fusion.

For reference, the rest of the board is built with Etoxx gear drives, adjustable base plates and hubs with MBS trucks. Motors are Flipsky 6354s. Nice antisink plates from @Savage1. Total weight is ~30lbs. I think @Andy87 and @DEEIF might have done a bit lighter builds. To go in that direction, I would need to use a smaller battery, plastic wheels and perhaps belt drive. Not sure if I will go that far to save some lbs


Nice one!
30lbs is already not that bad and going as low as possible with the weight shouldn’t be the main priority anyways.
It’s all about building something that fits your needs and your taste design wise, really.
If you one day think that board is still to heavy, go and build a more heavy board, ride it for a week and than come back to that one and you will feel like it doesn’t weight anything :joy:


This is bloody sick Kilow!
I’m so glad someone finally open sourced a battery box :grin:

Awesome design too. I’m not sure if I like the ESC in the middle since you have at least 6 wires running from the bindings, and that’s always put me off. But it does make the whole build so clean!

Hats off :pray:

Btw how did you mount it to the deck? I see something about standoffs? Never seen this.
(As you know) I used a 6mm aluminium plate for the bottom and threaded 3 holes so some countersunk bolts come up from below the deck.


Thanks Louis. I don’t mount it. Just straps holding it tight with some thick neoprene in between to cushion and limit it slipping. Seems to hold for now. I wanted to keep it simple.

The six phases wires and two sensor wires do suck. But I have it routed over the toe strap like others, and now I don’t notice it. I never mess with the toe straps.


I wasn’t sure about eh 6354 motors. But they are 140kV and with 5:1 gear ratio, I get enough torque to make it up steep wooded hills which was my main requirement.

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if it was 40lbs, I think I would have a hardtime getting the wheels off the ground! Your eMTB thread was great, btw. Inspired me to build this.


Nice work!

The gx connectors are less than ideal for use as a balance connector as the socket side only comes with male pins which are prone to shorting (i’ve learned this the hard way… twice :sweat_smile:)

What size standoffs and bolts did you use?


I used M3 threaded, 80mm length standoffs (2 x 40mm joined with a stud), 6mm hex diameter, made of aluminum. They just slide into the enclosure. Rest of screws are all m3 countersink.

I also found some really cheap standoffs on Amazon that I was originally going to use, but they took over month to get to me, so I used the double stack. They are one piece, but really thin 5mm.

I think I saw you use a different balance connector somewhere. Reminded me of something on a piece of test equipment, like a lemo connector. What was it? I think it looked like this:

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Egg 1B 12mm balance -

Male plug link

NZ$ 15.27 37% Off | FGG 0B 1B 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 14 16 Pin Male Plug Connector Welding Cable for Camera Power Flying Leads Cable

Dust cap link

NZ$ 12.66 | M12 Connector 0B 1B 2B Series BFG Plug Caps BRE Dust Cap for fixed sockets HGG EGG ECG EEG Plug and socket connector

They’re super pricey, but worth the cost IMO. They’re high quality connectors and super small.


Those look nice, the panel mount is very flush which is what I was looking for. I also think paying a bit more for a balance connector is worth it because you will be clicking into it every time you charge.


Yep for sure. And they are pre-wired with silicone wire :ok_hand:

You don’t wanna try soldering your own wires on these :sweat_smile:


Nice. I’m also currently building some boards with battery cases made with a similar construction method.

It’s early days but it seems to be working out well so far.


This is sweet! Still love your Star Trek enterprise remote!!


I’ve been wanting to do this for a while… your thread prompted me to actually do it :grin:

Its a 40hr print… my longest by far. I hope the print gods are with me.


What material are you printing with?


Need to tweak a few things i think :sweat_smile:


It’s called… the spiderweb


Here was mine a bit of the way into the 30-40Hr print. PLA. Next one will be PETG


Nice midprint insert insertion game you have!


Damn that’s way to tech for me :rofl: hoe do you make it stop to work on it?

Round 2 is going well so far for me

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