Yup, good call. It’s not perfect (by any stretch) but if I fuck it up through impatience I’ll be dark.
Fuck it. Beer time. Haha
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The buck shaping went well. Trimmed it up to rough shape with jigsaw and belt sander then got bogging on the relief cuts.
Got it sanded up and shaped a little better and gave it a coat of paint to identify any low spots. Bogged and sanded again, and then hit it with primer/filler
Really happy with the shape of this, so much more satisfying than just a rectangular box underneath.
So I’ve been doing my filleting with silicone recently because ‘its easier’. But its actually not easier. Silicone goes on quicker and is easier to apply, but it ends up giving a pretty poor finish by the time the buck is all waxed up.
So moving back to plasticine. It is difficult to apply and shape, but it’s gonna be far easier to work with now and provide a much better result.
There will still be a little sanding and touch ups involved with the final mould, but I’m very happy with how it’s shaping up. Next step is wax, then I can start the layup!
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What’s the white plastic?
Like that it will form a smooth runout area for the layup fabric and layup is straight onto the underside of the deck. 
Forming fillets onto the plastic is a bit tough tho.
I’ve been forming a thin MDF base for enclosures to match the underside deck surface so I can then fillet from buck onto that with bog, before priming and sanding. Easier to shape good fillets and sand and prime but the downside is it won’t match deck surface as perfectly as this way. 
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Its sign writing vinyl. It serves a few purposes.
Helps me to create a mold with a significant flange
Protects deck surface while allowing to work directly on the deck for perfect curvature
Before i applied the vinyl, I used spray adhesive to stick down a thin bit of card which will represent the outline of the final enclosure. This should translate into the mould and final part, so I have an easy reference to cut and finish to.
It also releases easily from the epoxy.
Still haven’t come up with a good way to apply it to reduce the ripples in it, but until I figure out something better, this is the way for me.
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Nice.
Does it shrink with a heat gun?
If so, could be helpful for reducing wrinkles.
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The heat gun helps a little, but not enough to eliminate all the wrinkles.
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I forgot to show off my new bench! Scored a bit of toughened glass from work, perfect for use as a fibreglass/resin/urethane work bench. So thats what it became.
I needed to relocate a deck rack and also eliminate a deck rack for the bench to fit, so I took the opportunity to build something I have wanted for a long time…
Finally have a good storage solution for my fibreglass rolls. Although I fear this may just encourage me to buy more fibreglass
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Ok, Al so the new segmented mould I now have Is without a decent runout flange like this for support of the excess fabric in a layup.
Whatcha reckon? I know it helps the layup and my last enclosure mould had a good border area around the deck which made the layup pretty easy. Without flange the fabric will want to drape and sag down and pull the rest outwards from the layup.
Options I am considering:
Flip mould face down and layup a fibreglass flange onto the back of it, extending onto a flat Worktop surface.
Vac form some thick plastic over back of the mould to do the same. This will also form a backing I can use for vac bagging the enclosure layup, so only need to bag the top (bonus).
Ignore and try to do the layup very carefully on the mould just as it is…?
A couple of your previous moulds looked like this (I think?) without a good runout area.
#whatwouldglyphiksdo
Edit. My gut feel is making a flange on the mould is worth the effort cos it will be easier after that. Probably leaning towards vac forming one with 3mm styrene
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I have actually thought about this a lot lately, as the flanges produced with my vinyl method are less than ideal.
Your option 2 sounds like the best result, especially considering the camber of the mold.
Making the flange should be easy peasy compared to the rest of the process and I think that it is well worthwhile.
In my mind, it is probably actually easier to add the flange on after the initial mold is made, i think you are on the right track
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Cheers for the advice mate.
You have confirmed my thinking and I’m gonna roll with that approach. 
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Squeegee will maybe help?
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I have tried various squeegee and heat methods, but the problem is that the curves are too complex for the vinyl to form nicely with no backing.
I need to devise an easy way to build out the flange area to closely mimic the shape of the deck to reduce the complexity and severity of the curves
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Just because you do something for free doesn’t mean the quality shouldn’t matter. Level up 
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When you are as busy as I am, and you are doing favours for people who abuse their boards, care factor kind of goes out the window 
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Ungrateful fucks anyway.
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Been a minute since I posted anything here, been busy doing stuff and things.
Did a 10s5p 30q for a metroboard x. Board looks really well made, but the ride is pretty disappointing. Fuck all torque, boring top speed, DKP trucks. That said, it does ride a lot nicer than an evolve. 20km range on the metro 155s.
The exciting news is that I have finally started on some new enclosure projects
Will be single stack 21700 enclosures for the Rayne Demonseed 42 (12s5p) and the Loaded Omakase (12s3p).
I’m pretty keen to get these happening, hopefully get a start on the bucks tomorrow.
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Wolf shark?
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Not yet. Hard work is done for that one. Its on the shelf until i get some more molds made.
Edit: whoever gave me my new title deserves a cookie
Edit 2: plus, i also wanna order a catch pot and a couple other bits and pieces for the vac setup. After watching all the youtube vids, I have a much better idea of how i want my setup
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It’s here! Never had the pleasure of handling a @bigben enclosure before… all i can say is that I need to up my game.
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I have one right here, and his work speaks for itself.
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