I did sand down everything today already.
Good thing, I could fix some parts I wasn’t fully happy with and I probably will have some paint left over after I did that side once more.
So there is also something good in it.
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Fuck! Sorry to see that Andy. If you don’t already, after you use it, tip your spray can upside down and spray out any paint to keep that nozzle clear of paint. You’ll see just vapour/air come out after it pushes the last bit of paint out.
Keep a spare piece of wood or cardboard next to you when painting and do all the same steps on that before you keep going on the main piece. That will help a ton in testing incompatible products.
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I‘m thankful for any recommendations always!
I definitely will try that with spraying out the nozzle with the fresh cans I ordered.
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Still cold, wet and dirty over here, but I got a bit of quality sun time to have an long after work ride the last days. There is still quite a lot salt and sand on the roads which isn’t nice for all the drive train. Especially the chains getting super dry after some km riding.
Idk why, but all my boards feel less powerful after the winter break.
Maybe they just need to get back into the season 
Going to double check and adjust some setting today.
Some impressions from the ride:
One of my popsockets gave up as well.
With the flatland 3D gloves they popsocket gets a bit too much stretched and the soft part started to cut off.
Good that they are cheap and easy to replace.
Also the situation with the flatland 3D gloves is getting worse and worse with each ride. Really a shame. I didn’t wear them much and I really expected them to last longer.
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How are your sewing skills…?
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honestly not too bad. I thought to give them for repair, but the material on the finger tips starts getting holes as well which isn’t so easy to fix.
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Recalling the situation a while back when one of my pucks got me funky acceleration signals on a ride and I thought it was because I was riding in wet conditions.
I did cover the pcb with some nail polish (except buttons and vibration modul) as I was hoping to achieve a bit more waterproofing after that.
Today I did set the puck up again on a board and now I’m getting really funky input readings all the time.
So basically when I put the trigger in brake position, the signal is perfect.
If I put the trigger in acceleration position, the signal jumps between brake and acceleration.
I made a short video which hopefully helps to show my problem.
I did double check that behavior by pairing another puck and there all everything is how it should be, so it’s definitely not an esc or receiver issue.
Any ideas what’s going on there and if there is a fix to that issue (exchange the poti for example) or will I need to buy a new puck?
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Andy - take a close look at the solder joint squared in yellow. We’ve seen this behavior on remotes that have been dropped and cracked this solder joint. You can either hit it with a bit of solder or ship it back to us for review/repair.
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I did not have had a time today to resolder the pins, but I had a quick look after work and for me it looks like the right pin isn’t soldered to the pcb at all.
I tried to find some other pictures to compare if it does look similar on other remotes, but couldn’t find anything yet.
If anybody has the pcb on hand right now I would appropriate if you could double check if it looks similar.
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That’s how my single connection on the other side of the pot looked when I opened the case. I think there’s some solder between, but I hit it with a nice blob just in case.
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Let’s move into second round of Hoyt puck input issue trouble shooting.
I did remove the thumb wheel, did add some solder on all pins and cleaned all the area around the poti.
Unfortunately it didn’t fix anything.
Result can be found here:
https://vimeo.com/manage/videos/533876761
Second idea was to remove the poti and see if there is something wrong under it.
As i suck in removing parts with multiple pins from a pcb I tried my luck with my hot air station. After some seconds the flux was gone and some magic smoke came up (not that electrical magic smoke luckily… battery was disconnected).
I didn’t manage to get the poti off completely, so I thought I give it a last try…
Well looks like now all works just fine again.
https://vimeo.com/manage/videos/533878054
Could it be that sometimes came under the poti or in the poti that caused that funky readings?
I‘m happy that it works now, but I‘m not confident using this pcb anymore.
I do ride much in traffic or close to cars and a sudden acceleration out of nothing isn’t something I‘m looking forward to.
If I would be in US I wouldn’t both and just get a new pcb, but shipping to Russia always sucks.
What’s you guys/girl think would be the best to do in this case?
Just hope all is fine now and continue to use that puck,
Or
Better don’t use it anymore and getting a new pcb (or even two…)
One thing I noticed while trouble shooting was that the Input deadband setting I put to 8% changed back to 15% after binding different pucks. Not always, but sometimes… not sure what is going on there and why the vesc dies set back default settings.
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Man, I would hate to use a remote I don’t trust, and after my injury this feeling is even stronger.
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I wouldn’t mind using it if I would just ride out in the wild on grass, but till I come there I have quite a bit city traffic to manage.
Guess I’ll need to hit up @JJHoyt for shipping to Russia once more 
The remaining question is if that added nail polish on the pcb had anything to contribute to it? I mean I did add a bit of it on the poti pins as well. Maybe something came inside or under or who knows what, that made everything just worse.
Or can’t that be?
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Knox (who provided fl3d with their sliders and design language for the gloveees) make em much better, i have the Orsa MkIII textiles, much better gloves for the same price 
they’re european fit so you may need to size up if the fl3d fit you snug
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Yep I had a look at them a while ago.
Shipping was the reason in the end I didn’t bought them.
I just got a set of triple eight hired hands.
They are half finger only unfortunately, but they have two plastic rails as wrist protection and just going to remove the front one so that I can hold my remote better.
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i believe Revzilla has them in stock again, unless you’re not in the US/EU
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RU
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dam
so close
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The EU part of RU… so yes, not that far off
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Quite a bit to do on that one the next week or two.
Things on my list:
- remove MBS F5 bindings
- remove blades
(I checked yesterday and I unfortunately need to take them off) - install step on bindings
- take off all motors open them and change the big bearings
- seal the motor front plates with epoxy
- seal the motor can with a printed cover
- redo wiring
- change sprockets to 46T
Optional:
- install AS5047 encoder on all 4 motors
Sounds not much, but I‘m really not looking forward to take the 8085 motors apart.
Definitely going to be a pain…
I hope the way I plan to seal the motors will help in future to not get that much bearing issue when riding in wet conditions.
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