That’s the plan for 2021.
Need to step up my trick game a bit and I still can’t do 360s… embarrassing…
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It’s all in the hips. Once you’re in the air, just like, turn around, fast. Simple.
That was terribly worded. I’m still learning.
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Wheels and drawbar. Trailer hitch?
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Thought I can take my quad to drag the kicker with my jumpboard to the open field.
Would definitely look funny 
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Christmas wasn’t too bad…
Used part of the Christmas money to finally get some workshop essentials.
A drill press
And a solid speaker
They are without sensors, but I have some AS5047 encoder laying here. Maybe I can get them work with those motors. I think I wanted to use them now already for two years or so. Definitely time to give it a go.
I as well sold my Tevo Tornado 3D printer as I lately anyway just use the Ender3…
ok ok, main reason was that it was more easy to explain my girlfriend that I bought a drill press… one gone, one in…
I also made myself a Christmas present for sure
Always wanted to play around with inrunner.
It’s a for science project, but who knows what will be the results of it.
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Hey Andy!
I went on my first test ride today in 86 days 
… first snow ride at that! brings a whole new meaning to spinouts haha.
I was wondering how they hell do you keep your feet in place? i noticed that with wet snow, as soon as it gets on your shoe, the griptape becomes useless and even with the toe bindings strapped down as hard as i could, my foot would just slip. heel strap would be a must in this case i think, but curious if you experianced this 
obviuisly with powder i assume it’s fine but wet snow just becomes icy slush 
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Yes that’s one of the biggest issues riding in snow and the last weeks I’m even playing with the idea to use snowboard bindings on my quad 
Heelstraps do help a lot already. Especially with the mbs binding/heelstraps combo you can lock your feet very well in place.
Also try to get on the board with snow free shoes and try to not get off the board during the ride. As soon as there is snow under your shoes it’s getting icy quickly. Doesn’t matter so much if it’s powder or wet snow I think.
There is also the option to add studs to your shoes, but I‘m not sure if that helps that much and how big the damage to the deck would be.
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Needed a new board stand…
the PVC pipe stand didn’t hold long and was always a bit wobbly anyway.
So bought some wood blocks and made a high quality technical drawing…
Still no proper place to cut and drill stuff.
Good that I had some weights laying around.
I wanted the stand to be able to take apart at any time without to remove bolts or stuff. Space is still limited in our flat, so that was a main feature which needed to be implemented.
For this I cut off the heads of some M10 bolts.
Drilled holes and installed some M10 threads.
That’s the stand legs with installed M10 shafts.
30mm wooden cross bar for the legs…
4x more 10mm holes to drill in the base element for the legs to fix.
And here we are…
When ever I need to pack away the stand I can just remove the legs with the cross and store it in the corner.
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hmm
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I asked reacher as well, but they didn’t get back to my questions, so I decided to go with an other company.
Good thing on the ones I have right now is that they do have 10mm shaft which fits too most of my hardware and the back is open which will help me to integrated the AS5047 encoder.
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Same experience. We need someone who can parlay with these guys…
What are the inrunners going on? Why didn’t you go with 56123/230kv?
I’d love to pick Kami’s brain on the 70120s. All I’ve heard is that they are a handful… Like sports car/motor bike engines. More power the faster they spin. This could be due a lot of gearing though.
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The 56123 230kV would work nicely, but
I wasn’t sure I can fit them on my trucks.
With normal „long“ motor mounts they would fit, no problem.
But I would like to mount them on my gear drives. Gears are more close to the hanger and it could be that they will hit the baseplate or the kingpin then.
That’s why I decided to go with the shorter motors. If I‘m sure I could fit 56123 as well, I might buy two of them as well. KV wise that would definitely be better.
70120 I personally wouldn’t want to run.
I looked them up as well, but they are 1.6kg. The 56114 are 1.2kg which is just in the right spot in my opinion.
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Let’s talk encoder (part 1 basics)
Our VESC firmware supports the use of different types of encoder with vesc based escs.
The AS5047 is one of them.
What is the AS5047 encoder?
It’s a rotary encoder which can tell the vesc the exact position of our motor at any time.
How does it work?
Simply said, you place a magnet on the motor shaft. The encoder chip is placed directly over the magnet. When the motor shaft is rotating, the magnet field does change as well and that’s what the encoder use to calculate the motor position.
Why could this be interesting for me?
With HFI and soon ASS the use if external sensors or encoder might become less and less relevant but for now it’s the most precious way to tell the motor position. This gives you an even smoother start up especially if you ride off-road.
It’s also a cheap and easy to implement option for people who bought sensorless motors or broke their hall sensors.
All right, so where you can get those AS5047 encoder?
My choice is Mouser, but l‘m sure you can get them as well somewhere else.
Make sure you select the right type. You want to buy the „P“ version.
You can get the full set with magnet and header and the chip on a pcb.
https://www.mouser.de/ProductDetail/ams/AS5047P-TS_EK_AB/?qs=Rt6VE0PE%2FOfJKFTMKo%2BL0Q%3D%3D
Or you can just get the chip and design your own pcb and safe some space.
The data sheet with the most important information you can find here
https://www.mouser.de/datasheet/2/588/AS5047P-TS_EK_AB_Operation-Manual_Rev.1.0-775823.pdf
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Let’s talk encoder (part 2 wiring)
Ok, so how to wire the fuckers up?
There are two main options:
3V and 5V
3V is the way to go if you have problems with noice. For this you need to switch the vesc based esc from 5 to 3V (usually small switch on the pcb) and change the 0 Ohm resistor R1 to R2 on the encoder pcb.
5V is usually fine and the factory setting on the encoder, so I will further explain how to set everything up with 5V.
To connect the 5V there are two ways.
Connect to the 5V terminal and solder a bridge to MOSI as well as solder a bridge on the PCB voltage select terminals.
Or you get the 5V from the esc directly to the MOSI terminal and just bridge that to the middle terminal of the voltage select pins.
Important to use shielded wires and connect the shield to ground on the esc and encoder side. I did twist the shielding and soldered a small bit of AWG wire on. That did work very well.
Also try to hold the cable length as short as possible to reduce noice.
Wiring schematic ESC to encoder is following
At this point it should look like this:
Disclaimer (yellow is 5V in the picture, not red)
For one or the other it would make now sense to use a bit of clear nail polish 
On the pcb please… just for that extra water proofing.
And we are done with the wiring.
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Let’s talk encoder (part 3 installation and setup)
How do we install the encoder on our motors?
First we need to fix the magnet on the motor shaft.
For outrunner it’s more convenient to place the magnet inside the pulley/sprocket/gear bore. For this you might need to shorten the shaft a bit.
In my case (inrunner) I placed the magnet on the back of the motor.
A drop of green/red loctite should be enough to hold the magnet in place. As I’m extra sensitive, I did add a bit of epoxy around the magnet as well.
Important: the magnet need to sit as centered as possible on the motor shaft.
Now we need to fix the encoder pcb above the magnet. The encoder need to be placed centered and 1-3mm over the magnet.
Etoxx gear drives you can buy with a slot for the encoder PCB.
If you run chains or belts you could just design a belt/chain cover to accommodate the PCB.
I did something similar. Just an additional end cap that can be mounted on the 3x M3 holes of the inrunner case.
To fix the PCB in place, I used some liquid tape, but you could use sugru or epoxy as well.
Just keep the encoder clean.
Now we plug the jst plug into the hall sensor port on our esc.
Just like we would with regular hall sensors.
For setup via vesc tool we follow the motor wizard.
If the motor detection takes a bit longer than usual with hall sensors, we know we are on the right way.
In general the auto detect should find the encoder and calibrate everything by it’s own.
After finishing the motor detection there should be written „encoder“ together with the motor current, inductance and all the other parameter.
To double check everything we can go into
Real Time Data -> tap Motor position
Than click „Encoder“ on the right menu.
If you turn the motor by hand, you should just get a nice clean line showing you the position of the motor.
As I did rotate the motor by hand it’s not a linear graph, but it shows that the signal is without noice and the encoder right calibrated.
In fact we are now done and ready to ride.
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Took a bit a while to write up the last part,
but the how to encoder is finally finished.
Hope to see more AS5047 encoder used in 2021 
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What do you think about mounting it on the axle side of the motor? or is it just dumb.
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It’s probably more easy to do it on the pinion side for outrunner, or where hanger space is limited. Nothing wrong with it.
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This is some fine work dude 
Any chance you could copy paste those posts into it’s own thread? It’s definitely deserving of it
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I could do that.
Just need to check how it works out with the pictures.
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