Louis's Alpine Workbench

Oh shit that’s super tiny! I didn’t realize how small the part was. I bet you could get a “sample kit” from a distributor and have enough rubber to make your mold…
It will be tricky to fill when casting. I’d use a slower setting urethane/epoxy/plastic so you can get a brush into the nooks, crannies and compresses the areas that will trap air. Especially if you’re not using a pressure pot.

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Mmmmmm looking closer at your part, you have small pegs on both ends of your model that’s either going to be a two part mold or some tricky cutting and reshaping those pegs after your casting comes out. I thought you were only molding the flat base section…:thinking:

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yeah lol, not that simple.
i thought about 3d printing the mold and then pouring the resin from a small hole on top. then I’ll just break the 3d printed mold (maybe make it from soluble filament).

If you really do want to mold and cast these prints send me pics of each part and I can draw some suggestions for parting lines, our spouts and venting. Just a heads up multi piece injection molding is getting into much more difficult stuff…

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Buy the spider

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can’t :upside_down_face:
anyway we are here to diy lol.
I do have a question though @Savage1
Does it matter if the spider is filled up in the middle or is hollow?
hollow:


Filled:

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Good point on the diy👌🏽 I like your spirit!
It should be hollow, as this helps it to flex a little for misalignment.


By the way, the little nipples are only there to allow the spider to flex in angularly.

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You could get away from the nipples if, when assembled, the spider faces where not touching the aluminum faces

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Well for the sake of the mold i’ll need to make it filled, and then i’ll drill it out.
here’s what i have worked on so far


oh nice! i’m keeping the nipples, it’s just the mold making itself that’s hard without having the middle filled, as there would be limited space for the urethane to run

@Savage1 @Nomad what do you think? :smiley:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1e1W3ZGAZOD51WAex93hP5-5zcjZG29AQ/view?usp=sharing

So the ‘‘Front’’ is actually the top where I’ll pour the urethane from

I’m a computer luddite. I can’t open your file link. I assume it’s the same as the pic you just posted? If you’re pouring the urethane from the flat “back” side where there is no details or nipples you don’t even need the back half of the mold. Not having a back on the mold will be easier to fill and less prone to trapping air. You only need it if there are details that need capturing.
If you’re planning to print your mold and pour directly into that you can do that opposed to making a silicone one. Depending on how stiff your urethane is it may be difficult to demold. The nice thing about silicone and urethane is they don’t stick to each other at all. So molding and casting from each other works very well.

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If something else can report back to me on that just in case I actually sent a private link instead of of a public one?:no_mouth: :man_facepalming:

I’ll be 3d printing that, wax the interior, and then pour the stuff!
@Savage1 I forgot to ask, what material Is best for the spider? Urethane or 2 part silicone? What durometer?

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I am able download the file without any problems (using Safari on an iPad).

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80 shore A to 98 A shore A. Also 64 shore D

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Polyurethane

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I could. I don’t want to.

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:joy: Dirty bastard!!! I couldn’t either

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Damn you have all the parts, from samples to to the product itself :rofl:
I’m leaning towards 80A shore because more softer = more misalignment tolerance, no?

lol you took it one step further :stuck_out_tongue:

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Awesome update, got the hubs for the rear axle.
Turn out way better than expected paid €15 for each hub, they weigh 600g each.
the amazing thing is that they have an inner diameter of 63 mm which is about the same as an etoxx hub. :exploding_head:
These are going to be nice a phat when I install 10’’ tires :yum:

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