ohhh, so t splining is almost like clay molding ish, but virtually on fusion?
6 Likes
Exactly what I was looking for dude! Thank you so much. I really enjoy seeing how different people approach designs and always learn something new.
6 Likes
It does kinda fell like that
3 Likes
Yeah, it’s like virtual clay sculpting with precision, the ability to add perfect symmetry and also you can go back in the history and make easy changes.
3 Likes
PEW PEW INDEED 
12 Likes
Ooh have the bottom one be a red strobe one like a tail light!
5 Likes
I think I’ll just ride with the one on the bottom, but I wanted to make options. The bottom-mount works nicely as a pinky rest when the light isn’t installed.
9 Likes
Holy shit
6 Likes
Fuck yes. This is awesome
4 Likes
Am I too late to the party to pick up one of these boards?
I’m planning to use my puck in my haero build but I’m not convinced I’ll like the puck form, instead I love trigger remotes. I would love to try this out
3 Likes
I’ve had some good rides with this remote this week. It’s working out nicely, but I did find it helpful to upgrade to a heavier weight spring.
4 Likes
Do you have some pictures of the internals once it’s set up by chance?
I’m not doing this for a while, but I’m a little confused as to if I need to add any components to the circuit board or if it’s just the transplant of the one large component
Also, it is semi-difficult to print all of those tiny standoffs inside the top case, so I wonder how necessary they are. The ones with holes were easy though.
Thanks @Kilow for sending over the PCB! Once I ride a bit with the regular puck I’ll switch over to the pistol grip. I printed it out already and it feels pretty dang nice.
4 Likes
All the way up to 5?
1 Like
I actually had a .65 that I bought a year ago-ish.
2 Likes
Hey Ryan, those were lifted from the Puck Puck Bruce. They align the buttons. They print ok for me, I just have to be careful not rip them out when I pull out the supports. Still works when I do rip a few out, so maybe not all needed. I also found the accuracy does not need to be very high here. I did need to use a file on the button holes to get them to move smoothly.
Just the POT gets transplanted. Let me give you some quick instructions for when you do give it a try. I think it is easily reversible if you are good at soldering, in case you don’t like it.
Here are some quick instructions:
Step one: Disassemble the puck. Remove the battery bracket and wheel assembly
Step two: Unplug the battery and desolder the POT from the Puck PCB, circled in red below:
Step three: Solder three wires to the pads and use some hot glue to anchor them because PCB pads can be pulled off pretty easily with wires soldered to them. I brought the wires through the hole where the POT was. The wires should connect to the high (red wire), middle (green wire) and low (black wire) taps of the POT footprint. There are two middle taps, you can solder to either.
Step four: Solder the three wires to the three holes in the trigger PCB. Note the order, black on the left, green in the middle, red on the right. Make sure they come out the correct side or the spring will hit the wires. EDIT: also solder the POT to the board at this point.
Step five: Change the thumb wheel for the trigger. Unscrew the little screw in the thumb wheel and replace the wheel with the 3D printed trigger. Careful for ejecting springs.
Step six: The PCB will snap right on to this and you can use two screws from the battery tray to secure it the wheel assembly.
Step seven: Plug the battery back in and power it up to test it before final assembly. It should be functional at this point, so if you can’t throttle your board, something might have went wrong.
Step eight: Slide the battery in first to the grip, then the trigger assembly into the three slots. Both the stock battery and a 21700 fit. The trigger assembly must slide in at an angle, not quite straight down.
Step nine: Put the two side screws in to hold the trigger assembly in place. I used 2-56, 3/8" length, but I think M2x10mm will also work.
Step ten: You can now fold the wires under the board and push the board down. If you tucked the wires under right, the board should sit in the pocket easily.
Step eleven: Get the top case with the buttons and flip the grip on. Its a little tricky to get everything to not spill out. Then add screws while you squeeze it all together. You should be good to go at this point.
9 Likes
Hey Thom, are you going to share your files so I can also point 2000 lumens at people when I ride at night?
3 Likes
Yeah, I can upload them to my thingiverse unless there’s a better way.
If you put it there I’ll link to it on the git project. Or you might be able to put it on the git yourself