Puck, Puck, Bruce!

[Andrew]

Alright folks, we’ve got some options here if you’d like to get a Puck, Puck, Bruce! Shell Mod Kit.

Have a few sets from Batch 1 still available here:

Puck, Puck, Bruce! Mod Shell Kit

Batch 1 is printed in MultiJet Fusion Nylon PA12, Right-Handed, in a two-tone color scheme (grey top, black bottom).

Batch 2 will have a Lefty option avaiable as well.

If you’d like to go nuts with colors and/or would like something on your own time & dime, I also set up the top & bottom shells in our DRI Shapeways Store.

Puck, Puck, Bruce! Top Shell - v7 by DerelictRobot on Shapeways

Puck, Puck, Bruce! Bottom Shell - v7 by DerelictRobot on Shapeways

They have a number of colors, all printed in nylon available, just costs a bit more

[Andrew]

@Andrew

number of colors

Seriously, not kidding.

[Benjamin]

My wallet is throwing a tantrum. This looks amazing!

[Flasher]

Well this sucks… Just found out my vibration motor doesn’t work

[Andrew]

@Flasher

vibration motor

Is your shell screwed down too tight? Does it work when you remove the shell?

[Flasher]

@Andrew

when you remove the shell?

I’ll try that after supper. Not letting my poutine get cold
There’s slight heat warps in the print so I might have over tightened to compensate

[Redeye]

v7 print looks and functions great. Micro usb opening looks cleaner. Not sure yet if it is my hardware choice and/or print causing the slight gap at the bottom of the case. No big deal to me, since it’s encased in my sleeve.

[Flasher]

I have the same problem on the other side

I think for mine it’s a first layer heat warp

[Andrew]

@Flasher

same problem

On yours I would make sure that the pins/sockets are clear on the rear side of the throttle wheel.

I can confirm no problems on the MJF print so it’s likely a tolerance thing with the FDM printers. I saw similar results on my own v6 FDM print.

[Flasher]

@Andrew

pins/sockets are clear on the rear side of the throttle wheel.

The ones that had support residue? If so I cleaned them as best I could and all the pins on the internals fit with no resistance. It’s only when I try to put the screws that the case seems to distort a bit. Like something around the vibration motor area is pushing and stopping the case from being flush.

[Andrew]

@Flasher

Like something around the vibration motor area is pushing and stopping the case from being flush.

Probably have an older/first version of the v6 shell that did not have cutouts there. I cleaned that up in rev6+:

@Andrew

Rev6 turned out pretty nicely- I’m going to make two minor revisions to the top shell (enabling the remaining 4 led cutouts + adding more clearance around the vibration motor)

[Jujo]

Guilty of sending a sticky Bruce Puck in the wrong Rev

[Flasher]

Oh that explains a lot

Even thought " maybe my motor is not the same and/or bigger for some weird reason"

[Flasher]

So…I guess that’s also why the motor ain’t turning?

[Andrew]

@Andrew

Is your shell screwed down too tight? Does it work when you remove the shell?

[Flasher]

It works without the shell

[fessyfoo]

@Flasher I think yours has 4 LED holes?
I think that likely means it’s before the cutouts for extra vibration motor space.

so… hack it or get a newer version?

[Flasher]

@fessyfoo

hack it or get a newer version?

I’ll be keeping it as is. I’m told to expect a new one and that I have no right to refuse it

[fessyfoo]

special powers in action.

[Flasher]

Decided to test my calibration skills