I would go full pole if you did that.
4 Likes
I’ll be honest. Dye the wheels to match the purple grip tape and it would level up.
6 Likes
Grip tape comes off pretty easy too bro. Heat gun. Commit to the purple.
The velour suit is calling you, Al…
2 Likes
Lol. If it was mine I would. I’ve already made him uncomfortable with the leopard print, gonna have to call it a day here
3 Likes
Work has continued on the pimp bus…
Gripped and mocked up, super surprised at the free roll of the TBDDs, but also with the amount of flex in the switchblade 
will slot out the enclosure holes a little to allow for a little movement.
I made a flat plate of fibreglass to cover the drop thrus and act as an antisink plate, however i don’t like them black… i am thinking about skinning them with leopard print 
Made the fat-ass battery and completed the wiring harnesses.
Fat-ass battery is a tiny bit too fat so I need a gasket. I tried to make one by taping up the deck and the enclosure, spacing them apart from each other and filling the gap with silicone.
It was looking and feeling good from the outside after about 24hrs, but it well and truly needed more time to cure. It was destroyed in my quest to seperate the parts.
Gasket V2 - routed rough gasket shape into a sheet of MDF, primed with 2k, lined with packing tape, filled with 2 part urethane. It was semi cured before I went to bed so I pulled it out of it’s mold and attempted to stick it onto the enclosure… i will find out if I was successful tomorrow
9 Likes
So the gasket was a great success. Very happy with it.
For now it is just superglued to the enclosure, will run around the inside of it with some silicone as well.
Waiting for epoxy to cure on the charge/loopkey harness and decided to get busy on one of my personal projects.
Been following @rosco’s workshop thread and getting rather jealous of how goddamn good his latest enclosure project is looking, so it is time for the wolfshark to get some enclosure love.
Cut up some ply and MDF and clamped it down to an old Jet deck with nice concave. Don’t need to follow any wheel wells or anything like that so just want a nice curve in the bottom of the enclosure. Plus the wolfshark is already skinned, so didn’t wanna risk damaging it.
8 Likes
Looks like it’s gonna be a great shape contoured round the wheel wells and deck shape 
For a second I thought you were gonna chop the wolfshark down into a drop through deck for dwarfs
1 Like
Lol never. They’re too hard to come by to go fucking with it like that.
Wanted to try and follow the shape of the deck as best as possible, to end up with an enclosure that’s a little nicer than just a box underneath.
If I’m lucky, I should be able to fit a 12s5p single stack 30q in there. Really wanted 12s4p p42a, but the size just doesn’t allow it.
5 Likes
Ok, Al.
So fibreglass mould process. Tips please.!
Wax plug. (9 coats done)
No PVA?
One coat on plug of Thick epoxy with fumed silica (I have colloidal silica powder) like a gel coat.
Let tack?
Fibreglass cloth layer.
Let cure?
Then proceed with other layers??? Wet on wet each time?
1 Like
Let the first layer tack and then add your cloth. You wanna make sure it is really well pressed into the tack layer.
Now at this point, you could stop as you suggested, or you could just go for it.
If its just a hand layup, i find i get the best results if I let every single layer tack before i add the next one.
3 Likes
Sweet, that’s what I’ll do then.
Cheers bro.
Haven’t made hand layup mould before, so fingers crossed. I imagine getting smooth fabric coverage on all of the curves is gonna be fun. 
2 Likes
Yeah it’ll be heaps of fun
lay resin, let layer tack, stick cloth down really well, let cure, repeat.
This has gotten me the most reliable results, but also takes the longest
2 Likes
I’m in no rush. Cheers. Hopefully start tomorrow 
1 Like
Just curious about skinning @glyphiks
When you lay the fabric down, how you do you make it straight (the graphics being parallel with the board if that makes sense)?
You just eye ball it lol?
1 Like
Yep. All by eye. Gotta time it right too so there is enough tack for the fabric to stick, but not too much that it removes the resin if you need yo reposition
2 Likes
How cured till next epoxy coat. 8hrs / overnight? or just no tack?
2 Likes
It probably really depends on your resin.
I find that if I apply new resin to cloth on tacky resin, the cloth often starts to lift.
I would be waiting until there is absolutely no tack.
3 Likes
Yup, good call. It’s not perfect (by any stretch) but if I fuck it up through impatience I’ll be dark.
Fuck it. Beer time. Haha
2 Likes
The buck shaping went well. Trimmed it up to rough shape with jigsaw and belt sander then got bogging on the relief cuts.
Got it sanded up and shaped a little better and gave it a coat of paint to identify any low spots. Bogged and sanded again, and then hit it with primer/filler
Really happy with the shape of this, so much more satisfying than just a rectangular box underneath.
So I’ve been doing my filleting with silicone recently because ‘its easier’. But its actually not easier. Silicone goes on quicker and is easier to apply, but it ends up giving a pretty poor finish by the time the buck is all waxed up.
So moving back to plasticine. It is difficult to apply and shape, but it’s gonna be far easier to work with now and provide a much better result.
There will still be a little sanding and touch ups involved with the final mould, but I’m very happy with how it’s shaping up. Next step is wax, then I can start the layup!
7 Likes