I hope I do not need more than two layers.
It’s really just to make everything a bit more smooth locking.
2 Likes
Today was, lets say mixed…
Finally no snow but -8 C, so time to get the inrunner with 1:6.25 gearing out for a test ride.
Yeah, na… last minute bench test with charged battery and only one side is working.
Multiple on/off cycles showed that sometimes one side only works and sometimes both work how they should. Good I checked before leaving the house fully dressed up.
Opened up the esc case again to check the status and no faults on the vescs, but indicator leds do show that the slave sometimes doesn’t receive the throttle signal.
Looks like something with the CAN bus is fucked up.
Gonna need to do some more trouble shooting the next days.
On days like this I’m happy to have not only one board, soooo time to give the jumper a go.
First ride after rebuilding as well.
Quick bench test as I had the impression that last time power was a bit reduced and I had the suspicious idea that I might have been in mode 2 or 3 on my Hoyt puck…
well yes, I was riding the last runs in mode 2 
Interesting thing I found out, in mode 3 the vesc cut off power after 2-3 sec. full throttle.
That’s not good and something I wouldn’t want a newbie to experience 
Mode 1 and 2 do not seem to have that issue.
Maybe somebody else with a Hoyt puck can check that as well.
Just put your puck in mode 3 than full acceleration on the bench and see if the escs cut power after some seconds.
Some impression from the ride
Was super windy and the roads are full of salt. Hard to see if it’s ice or just salt, but damn was I missing this light setup. So fun to ride.
The 05b chains did hold up quite well and are more silent as the 06b.
Riding hall sensors after riding a board with AS5047 encoder is a bit depressing thou
Startup control is so much better with encoder. Especially on startup when you roll backwards a bit.
I had to change the battery on the same point as last time with the 9“ but inrunner.
I need to log my rides again to get number to prove my thesis, but for now it looks like the consumption for 8“ 6374 outrunner is similar to 9“ 56114 inrunner. If that proves to be right it would be great.
10 Likes
I need some more AS5047 encoder.
Would it be a dump idea to order them from China instead of Mouser?
Mouser just doubles up the price after check out with Russian address, which sucks and adds up to round about 25€ per encoder.
I found exactly the same pcb with magnets here for a reasonable price:
AS5047P Encoder Adapter Board
If there is a good reason why I shouldn’t order from there, let me know please.
3 Likes
So how much of a difference we talking here? Say encoder vs hall sensors, is it worth the switch?
1 Like
If the motor comes with hall sensors and it’s a carver board anyway, I’d probably wouldn’t use encoder instead. FOC and hall sensors are good enough to have a smooth take off.
To explain the difference is not so easy, but i did a test on a small hill with a hall sensor board and an encoder board.
Board is slightly rolling backwards and while rolling I gave a bit throttle.
With hall sensors i did roll backwards about 30cm till the esc got the exact position of the motor, than stopped the board and accelerated up the hill. With the 5047 encoder my board stopped without rolling further backwards at all and started to accelerate up the hill.
I think I’m not going to change anything on my boards with hall sensor motors as I would need to make different pcb holder for each motor mount, but I’m definitely going to add encoder to my quad in future.
5 Likes
Had a day off yesterday and finally made it to build a board stand for my longboards.
That was on my todo list already way too long.
One more highlight yesterday was the cake my better half organized for me.
19 Likes
That’s an awesome cake. The scattered nuts and bolts are such a nice touch.
10 Likes
The pucks win it for me
10 Likes
Same here
5 Likes
Yeah the pucks came out very nice.
In general all the details 
Funny that she took a picture when I had my board mid rebuilding
5 Likes
Time for an inrunner update:
Had them out for a ride today.
1:6.25 gearing with 8“ tires at 160A motor current settings
and I need to say, it’s waaaaay better than 1:5 with 9“. Torque is reasonable right now.
Nothing super crazy, but quite good.
Especially if you accelerate when already cruising at 30 something km/h they pack a punch. Nothing I had with lower kV outrunner before.
Freeroll is not as good with gears as with chains and I also don’t think that helical gears are the best to run those motors with. Definitely would prefer straight cut.
I did run sensorless and that’s super fucked.
Had some situations where I did roll a bit backwards and there was no way to get the motors out of the studdering mode.
Also that sound during the last slow turns due to the 6poles only just made me worry that at one point the gears will just shatter.
On another topic, I had my first crash or let’s say dirt slinger of the year.
Fucking cleaning car turned on the bike lane and I needed to ride around it. Unfortunately there was winter mud dirt shit and the back wheels just slipped away the moment I wanted to come back on the bike lane. Landed with the back in that nice line of dirt.
The guy in the cleaning car just looked strange at me laying on the road and started to drive away
I also had an issue with my puck today.
I got pretty full of that salt water sand shit which is still on the road and not long after my crash I got first strange cut outs and than the throttle came back even that I already released the thumb wheel.
Those accelerations without touching the throttle alway cut a bit of my mojo so that’s pretty fucked…
I stopped and tried to switch off the puck, but I even couldn’t switch it off. It just got stuck in blinking red and sometimes vibrating, but different from that when the puck loses connection.
I did wait a bit till the remote became dry and after that I could switch it off/on without issues.
Till end of the ride I didn’t experienced any further strange cut outs or sudden accelerations.
As I very likely ride more often in wet conditions, there is now the question, what can I do to avoid this to happen again?
Would be nail polish around the poti and on the pcb be a good idea, or better not to do that? If it’s a good idea, any places on the pcb which shouldn’t be covered with nail polish?
8 Likes
After any stack with the puck you wanna check this solder joint. Unexpected full throttles are the worst.
I glued my pot down with hot glue, not sure about any sort of waterproofing tho
8 Likes
Good to know.
I did not fall an the puck, so there shouldn’t be a damage on that point, but I’m definitely going to give it a bit of hot glue or liquid tape around the poti in future.
So I opened up the puck to add some nail polish on the pcb.
Unfortunately I needed to encounter this:
Two of the plastic spacer things for the bolts broke off and the other two already have cracks in them.
That means, either those stand offs are too short and there is a gap between the end of the standoff and the inner plastic part so that there can be too much pressures when tighten down too much, or the clear plastic has a too dry/stiff mix.
@JJHoyt did you have had any other clear Pucks with damage in this places?
8 Likes
How that? What did I miss?
3 Likes
I’ll let him fill you in, i don’t know the details well enough
3 Likes
But i wanna know it NOW
There is no thread to it???
Where are you @quinncfoster when we need you???
4 Likes
No thread, was in the telegram chat. He will be here soon enough. Something something design is inferior something something
7 Likes
Ah ok. My guess right now is that the stand offs are too short and if the bolts are tightened down they will break them off.
Can’t check that now as I’m waiting for my nail polish to dry out… 
4 Likes
