Yep after your input on our chat I decided to go with the 230kV. That will give me some extra torque as well, so not so bad 
Just need two more sss56123 
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imo a air damper is a better option, i’d also recommend the rockshox monarch R. there’s quite a bit of space between your axle and foot stance and i personaly use flanged oilite bushes although they are alot thicker
Double arm suspension, very cool!
The one consistent thing I found when researching suspension seems to be that you want the two shock pivots and the arm pivot attached to the frame to be at 90 degrees at full compression. You also want to keep this angle as steep as possible at no compression, I aim for above 60 degrees. At full compression it appears that your design is past 90 degrees. Another thing you may need to consider is shock bumpstop. The spring shock I chose basically had 10mm less travel than quoted due to this, not sure how this works in air shock.
Do you think chains will be a able to handle the high rpm?
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Why the R over the RL?
Working on that one. Need to redo the motor mounts to not get the motors in the way while leaning.
I think I can make them work. The once I would need have a wall thickness of 2.5mm, that’s not too bad.
picked 2 up off ebay for about £80 total and din’t need the lock out function.
i run 12mm pivot axles with oilite bushes (15mm O.D) not sure on the longevity of them tho.
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First thx for the reply. About the pivot points I have reread your comment a bit more to understand what exactly you mean. English is not my first language, so right now I can’t fully picture it 
About shock bumpstop I’ll do a bit of research. As I said I’m new to all this, so thank you for pointing it out.
About chains and high rpm.
I chose chains because they are most easy for me to implement. I tried a design with gears, but firstly it’s hard for me to get them machined and secondly hard to enclose them, which would be necessary for off-road riding.
I did a quick calculation and rpm should be about 15k at full charge. I did run chains at ~7k on other boards which was fine. I‘m not building a speed monster, so probably will anyways stay at around 50-60% of max speed most of the time.
I guess we will see. I‘m not sure with many things on this build, but that’s also the purpose on it.
To find out what works and what not and learn from mistakes I might make.
I found one RL for 70€ on eBay, but no R. I will see and probably go the cheaper route.
So as I understood, you are not using the rockshox bushings for the damper, just oilite bushes? How does that work? I thought the rockshox have a 12,7mm opening for the bushings. How you fit a 15mm oilite bushing in there?
Edit: @Pickled_Monkey you don’t wanna write up a workshop thread as well? Would be nice to see your progress on your design selfish question to copy your best thoughts for sure 
Here is the picture of the angle I’m referring to.
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rockshox come with a bushing in the eye already which gets stepped down (in my case 8mm). it’s the main suspension links which use the 15mm oilite
i have a build thread on the news forum (Project iron giant) might do one here aswell. but go ahead copy and learn from me then i’ll probably do the same and copy from you for my version 2
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I‘ll check your thread on ESN.
I think discussing different ideas and concepts always just results in a better end product
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Finally moved fully to Germany 
Living with my parents for the next months, so everything needs to be improvised 
Yesterday my lipos came in.
Positively surprised about the building quality of the Tattu lipos. They have a full metal casing, additional shrink wrap over all wires where they exit the pack and those plastic balance wire plug protectors.
Unfortunately measurements they provided on their website are not accurate and the box I specifically ordered will not fit. Means I need to find an alternative way to mount them. As minimum till I had time to build up my Voron printer which probably will take quite a bit of time.
I‘m trying to build up some small workshop corner in the basement. Pictures are following in the next days.
I also sold my light build some days before I left Russia. Means I need to get my 9“ build back up running in the next days to be back on track.
Got some sweet anti sink plate from @Creavenger as well. It comes with the GoPro mount integrated, so I hope I can get some more nice shots and clips out in future. Should be nice.
Apex parts are on order as well to replace the light build I sold. Waiting every day for a shipping notification, but guess it will still take a bit.
Definitely big works ahead!
And it’s fucking hot right now. Not used to this hot European weather anymore. 38C forecast for tomorrow… I need more cold beer☝️
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No updates?
Well well well I have some updates
First my new little chaotic workspace
I started to built the voron, but didn’t come far till now. All this paperwork after moving back to Germany takes way much more of my time as I thought.
On top of that my Apex order arrived, so for sure, building up that board does have priority.
I can tell that the new Apex Bro deck design looks very very nice. Even more nice than expected.
I think I don’t have to say that the new Apex jump drives are very very nice as well.
Had a quick look and seems like I can fit the V5 reacher motors on them as well. So no need for a spacer, which I’m very happy about.
Will have a bit of a down time now as I need to wait for some bolts and nuts… no hardware shop around the corner where I can by those things anymore… let’s hope shipping will be quick and I will not need any other bolts.
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Ok, this one is going to be a difficult one. Hope I can explain my problem properly.
Some thought about my quad frame design.
If I use bolts as axles on rotating parts with flanged brass bushings I have a problem that the flange will cover only one side of the frame. With it one side will always rub against the aluminum frame and cause damage over time.
One option to stop that would be to integrate something like a grub screw to fix the bolt so that only one side is actually rotating. As I’m looking for the most easy way to design the aluminum frame, I would like to somehow manage that without using extra grub screws.
I did Picasso out my problem in hope it makes it a bit more clear.
Which other option I do have here? Maybe some kind of brass washer between the bolt head and the frame?
Any recommendations are highly appreciated!
Tagging @Savage1 after opening up the titanium discussion thread in hope that’s a topic he can give an advice to as well.
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Basic dude comment: could you just have a bushing in each side of the frame so there is no wear on the frames?
Washer is a good idea…maybe
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Not a bad idea. The thing is that the frame is 15mm wide, means I would need the bushings to be 7.5mm deep or cut each bushing to the right size.
could use ptfe washers/ depending on the size of bolt you can get oilite bushes to do the duel bush idea
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Instead of brass, use an oil embedded bronze bushing and thrust bearing. The thrust bearing is basically a bronze washer. They are typically made from 841 bearing bronze, and sometimes called oilite bearings. I use these for certain applications on machines. I usually get them from McMaster Carr or Misumi.
I happen to have these on hand…
What size bolt?
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Not quite sure of the application, but you might consider a shoulder bolt as well.
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