as @Savage1 says oil embedded bronze/ oilite would work better then brass.
great link as they have size filtering to find the right one.
also you got a top down view of the CAD?
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Not anymore atm. I fucked up something while making design changes and the CAD model is totally in pieces. I need to sit down one day to get everything back together. Just didn’t have had the time for it the last weeks. Will update here when I’m back at it.
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Slow progress on the Voron. Just found out that the gears for the extruder haven’t been included in the kit… so guess some delay on building up the print head.
On some good news, I managed finally to have a test ride on my new apex build. Noice on the Jump drives is decent and should get a bit better after some run in time I guess.
Was a warm day and the V5 reacher did perform not too bad. Had some hill climbs in my route. Still didn’t get them over 60C. As disclaimer, I wasn’t riding too fast and had some stops included in my ride.
I‘m missing a bit of top speed with the 1:5.5 gearing on 170kV motors. Thinking about switching to 9“ in the back, 8“ in the front, but not sure yet if I really like that either.
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How are you liking the drives so far?
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So far so good. Sure too early to give a defined opinion.
It might be because I’m not using the Apex motors, but I have a bit of play on the pinion with just the keyway installed. Not sideways play, more in rotating direction. My pinions definitely needed some loctite and removing isn’t going to be a quick thing. The motor mounting plate and thrust bearing also do make it hard to use a pulley puller, so it probably will need a loooot of heat if I ever need to remove that pinion again.
There is also one thing I can’t figure out why it is like that, but one side is definitely way louder than the other. I did remove the gears once more to clean everything up and check that there is no visible damage somewhere in the teeth, double checked alignment and tried different backlash settings. Nothing did change the sound level.
I‘m not very experienced with steel on steel gears, so my best bet is that it will get better once they had a bit of run in time. We will see.
Edit: one thing I didn’t like in the design is the mounting clamp with the grub screws on all 4 sides. It’s minimal, but if you don’t fix the clamp exactly centered, it can lead to the case not being centered mounted which leads to the gear getting pressure on the big bearing when rotating. I think it would have been better to make the clamp either more press fit tight, or the cut out not centered and only two sides with grub screws. Having the gear and a wheel attached while fixing the clamp does work well to get everything centered thou.
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Are you saying that pinion gear is to loose on the motor shaft? I have yet to actually assemble mine on my board with the motors, as I don’t plan to use them with the five stars I have, but rather custom hubs.
I have checked the bore of the pinion gears with gauge pins, and they are perfect. I HATE the idea of using retaining compound on the shaft/gear interface, but it appears this is necessary using none apex motors thus far? I will report back soon.
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Most likely, I may dissemble my motors, and machine a snap ring groove on the end of the shaft.
I might also consider tapping a hole in line with the keyway, for a grub screw?
The pinion sits perfectly flush on the shaft, but either my keyway cut is too big or the key itself too small. I did not check further. Was wiggling, I didn’t like, so I used loctite and called it a day.
I was thinking about this idea as well. In the end I did saw a groove for the circle clip which did work out better than expected 
If you will go the grub screw way, check upfront if there is enough place inside the gear case to accommodate the longer shaft. M3 grub screw will need more shaft length as the circle clip solution I guess. Also, lose grub screw is nothing I wish somebody to get into metal on metal gears while riding so don’t forget to proper fasten that guy 
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had a key come loose and yeet around the tub, locks the drive up real fast XD
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Still busy time, but I pulled the trigger on the rockshock damper so that I can take proper measurements and hopefully finish the design of the frame in the next weeks.
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Nice,
I’m working on V2 of my suspension board. My conclusion from V1 is that the front and rear suspension need different geometry. The reason being the axle path is not the same front and rear. Due to this the pivot (closer to the frame) on the front needs to be lower, an example of a suspension that more closely resembles this geometry is leading link suspension found in some motorcycles. For the rear a higher pivot is better, an example of this is high pivot mtb bikes. This is what I’ve found from my research, still to be tested. I’m not sure how dive, lift, squat will be affected. All concepts I’m trying to better understand.
Don’t mean to throw a wrench in you’re design process, looking forward to seeing what you come up with.
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Always happy for constructive input 
I should have some free time the next two weeks to work on the design. Will post some pictures in progress. Nothing fixed yet, so definitely always ready to discuss design ideas.
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I just did a bit of research about it.
Or let’s say, I watched some YouTube videos 
So as I’m now an expert… I can tell, it totally makes sense to use a high pivot suspension on the back and the low pivot to the front.
Just to share what I learned today.
If you hit a rock with a low pivot suspension, the wheel gets pushed against the direction the rock is moving when you rolling over it. Basically in this way:
With a high suspension setup, the wheel gets pushed in the direction the rock is moving when you roll over it. Basically in this way:
With this said, I realized I have a lot of redesigning to do. Also not yet set on what’s the best way to implement a high pivot suspension on the back. Might make a sense to try to get the damper installed in a horizontal position.
Will have to think about it in the next days.
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Why?
Wouldn’t it be better to have similar, or matching, axle paths on the front and back.
High pivot and rearward axle path is great for absorbing square edge bumps and smoothing out bumpy trails. Because the wheels move backwards and up they don’t get caught up on bumps as much so can be way faster and smoother over that type of terrain.
Why wouldn’t you want that for the front truck as well?
I have a high pivot mountain bike and it’s ridiculous how different it is over bumps to a bike with a low or virtual pivot
Are you modelling the configuration on cad or A programme like LINKAGE, to look at pivot placement and leverage rates on the shock?
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I think I might have had a small mixup.
Thought if with low pivot in the back the wheel is pushed against the way of the rock, with low pivot in the front it would go with the way of the rock.
But that’s not how it works, so high pivot all over it is than.
That would have been one of my follow up questions. At the moment I’m just modeling up everything in OnShape, but I have no idea which leverage and pivot placement I need to have a proper working setup. I guess I can adjust everything a bit with the pressure in the rockshox, but that works just till a point.
Will have a look at what you linked me. Hope it’s not too complicated to work with
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That might help with fine tuning, but you probably still want to confirm the geometry first. Imagine you want a slightly rising rate of leverage so the deeper it gets in the travel, the firmer the suspension.
I only tinkered on that program a bit, a few years ago but from what I remember it wasn’t too hard to use. Can’t remember if you can set up your own layout (like you will need to do for a skateboard).
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@Andy87 @rosco The reason you want high pivot rear and low pivot front is you want the axle path going back and away. If you design the front to be a trailing arm then they would both be high pivot. The front suspension you and I are designing is most similar to leading link. Something like this:
In the diagram below picture the bike going backwards and that is what the axle path in the front suspension would l look like.
I have high pivot in the front currently and it’s less comfortable than a flexy deck imo. I’m redesigning v2 now, there is definitely more work involved, but hopefully all worth it in the end.
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Yup.
Leading arm front suspension will mean a different pivot location.
Rearward and upward axle path is going to give good rough ground performance.
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